To secure your home, you should first address the vulnerabilities of entry, then focus on what makes the crime apparent, and finally build the routines or installations that allow both to operate effectively. The prioritization within this home security guide is critical, as the cheapest improvement on the list, which is the prevention of forced entry, has an undeniable capacity to reduce the most frequent burglaries.
This guide to home security is appropriate for a home or apartment, as it addresses the continuum of low-hanging fruit through professionally installed solutions. The following home security advice and home security tips will help you make your home safe from burglary without claiming any specific product as an impenetrable barrier.
Its advice comes down to three goals: reducing the opportunities for crime to occur, increasing the likelihood of detection, and improving response capabilities. That is the whole of home protection in one sentence.
How to Secure Your Home From Intruders: The Eight Steps That Matter Most
Follow this list in order, as subsequent items on the home security guide become less valuable if the one before it is neglected. This guide to home security ranks tasks by cost-effectiveness, which is the proper metric to prioritize home safety improvements, including budget home security solutions. It is also the short answer to how to secure your home from burglars.
1. Lock doors and windows, even when you are home, including those on the first floor or basement
2. Reinforce door frames
3. Install deadbolts on all exterior doors
4. Secure windows and sliding doors
5. Install additional locks on accessible windows
6. Light the approaches and entrances
7. Install a camera, video doorbell, or alarm system
8. Trim bushes and branches
The first and last items on this home security guide cost nothing. The second through fifth items in this guide to home security typically cost less than two hundred dollars for the whole house. From there, the list continues with increasingly expensive options, which is the wrong way to allocate resources in most cases. Most home security guides neglect the bottom of the list entirely, only addressing the seventh point.
What the Data Actually Says About Break-Ins
Most home security guides quote a statistic from one source, which may say something different from another. There are two federal databases that track burglary, and they define it in a different manner, which results in different statistics that should not be averaged together.
The most relevant statistic that will help you determine which home security items to purchase first concerns the manner of entry.
The FBI’s 2025 crime data classifies forcible entry, unlawful entry without force, and attempted forcible entry as the following percentages of all burglaries:
● Forcible entry: 53.4%
● Unlawful entry without force: 39.7%
● Attempted forcible entry: 6.9%
Review the second statistic on this list again, as it implies that nearly four in ten burglaries do not involve breaking a lock or window in any way. The figure includes entries through open patio doors as well as unlocked first-floor windows and other opportunities that may present themselves. Even with this information, the data is still helpful to support the burglar’s perspective on entry opportunities. A camera captures the trespasser who walks through the unlocked patio door. A deadbolt on the same door prevents the crime from occurring in the first place.
The next set of statistics concerns the frequency of burglaries and how it has changed over time.
There were 661,800 burglaries in the United States in 2025, according to the FBI, or 193.6 burglaries per 100,000 residents. This number represents a 15.8% decrease from the previous year. Of all burglaries, 53.4% were in a residence. The numbers represent crimes reported to the police, which is an inevitably smaller number than what actually occurs, as many burglaries go unreported.
The other federal database, which is known as Criminal Victimization, 2024, reflects this fact, with its numbers representing victimization surveys conducted by the Bureau of Justice Statistics.
Victimization surveys show a similar picture of the trend in burglaries, only with higher numbers due to the inclusion of unreported crimes.
There were 1,609,650 burglaries and trespasses in 2024 according to the victimization data, which is 12 per 1000 households. The 2024 survey results showed that only 40.7% of burglaries and trespasses recorded by the Bureau of Justice Statistics were reported to the police, which leaves close to six in ten that never reach an official count.
As mentioned, the figures from the FBI and the victimization survey data concern different numbers and should not be combined together or compared directly. The fact that they both illustrate a long-term decline in burglaries is the only reason why they appear in the same section.
When are burglaries most likely to occur, and when is nobody home?
The time of the day when burglaries are most likely to occur falls between mid-day and six in the evening, according to the FBI’s 2025 data on burglary attempts. The assumption that burglaries primarily occur when residents are asleep at 3 am is incorrect, as they are much more likely to happen when people are at work.
This home security guide concerns itself with whether someone is home when a burglary is attempted. As of now, the most recent study is the Bureau of Justice Statistics special report Victimization During Household Burglary, published in 2010 and covering survey years 2003 to 2007.
The report found that a household member was present during approximately 28% of burglaries, with 7% of those encounters involving violent victimization. This study’s most relevant finding for the rest of this home security guide is its summary of the opportunities for entry when nobody was at home.
The report found the following percentages of entry types when no one was present:
● Entry through an unlocked door or window: 39.5%
● Entry through an open door or window: 17.2%
The report did find a difference in timing between the two situations. Where nobody was home, 43.2% of burglaries happened during the day, while 61% of those with a household member present happened at night. Despite being several years old, the entry-method finding corresponds closely to the 2025 FBI data.
The Layered Approach: Deter, Detect, Delay, Respond
Home security installations fall into four categories based on their function. Any home security guide worth its salt will reflect this, as products that rely on a single function cannot fulfill the roles of the other three. With that in mind, this is a home security guide that prioritizes the tasks without attempting to sell you a comprehensive system.
| Layer | What belongs in it |
| Deter | Well-lit, well-kept entrances, motion lighting, clear sightlines, credible signage |
| Detect | Door and window sensors, glass-break sensors, cameras, a reliable neighbor who will call the police |
| Delay | Deadbolts, reinforced strike plates, secured windows, sliding-door bars, locked gates |
| Respond | An alarm plan, a charged phone, emergency contacts, an agreed room to gather in, a clear call for help |
A camera falls exclusively under the detect category; it cannot reinforce door frames. A reliable deadbolt belongs to the delay category; it cannot alert you to an attempted entry. The categories, and by extension the products, are distinct, but they combine to excellent effect.
As a general rule of thumb, most home security guides will state that a comprehensive approach follows the acronym deter, detect, delay, respond, and this home security guide is not an exception. The layered approach is common to many crime prevention methodologies, including Crime Prevention Through Environmental Design, or CPTED. This approach touches on the concepts of natural surveillance and territoriality as well as access control. It is also reflected in the tasks on the home security guide.
Do a Home Security Audit: Free Checklist
The ideal time to complete this home security audit is to walk through the house twice, once during the day and once at night, beginning at the street and working toward the back of the house. These home security measures cost nothing to check. Look for the following on your home security audit:
| Done | Things to look for | Where to check |
| 1 | All entrances close properly and have locks | Front, back, and garage-to-house doors |
| 2 | All windows close properly and have locks, and accessible windows are secured | Ground floor, basement, sliding and patio doors |
| 3 | Exterior lights illuminate entrances and approaches without shining into neighbors’ windows | Paths, dark corners, garage apron |
| 4 | No plants obscure doors or windows, and house numbers are visible | Street view, both in daylight and after dark |
| 5 | Garage access is secured and spares are not stored in obvious places | Opener remotes, access codes, tools, spare keys |
| 6 | Cameras and alarms cover what you intend, capture events clearly, and have updated credentials | App settings, recordings, user list |
| 7 | Smoke alarms sound, escape routes are clear, and emergency contacts are reachable | Every floor, plus the agreed meeting point |
Score yourself one point for every item that applies to your residence. Seven out of seven is a solid score, but the primary purpose of this home security guide is to highlight the items that require improvement. Most people should focus their limited home security budget on the life-safety items first, specifically smoke alarms and locks.
Many local police departments will assist you with a home security audit, as it is a useful exercise for everyone. The programs and requirements tend to vary, so consult your local police department to access this free home security resource.
Secure Your Doors and Locks
The security of a person’s dwelling is fundamentally a matter of the doors and their locks. If you are working out how to improve home security with better locks and cameras, you may want to begin indoors, with the purchase of a deadbolt. A camera that looks over an inadequately reinforced door frame will always have an inherent weakness.
Reinforce the frame instead of purchasing a more expensive lock
The majority of forced entries occur because the door frame is compromised. A lock’s bolt remains untouched while the wood around the strike plate cracks and splits.
The necessary reinforcements are simple and inexpensive, and the Seattle Police Department provides guidance on the matter. Use long screws in the strike plates and hinges so that they extend into the framing lumber and not just the molding. An example of a specification that achieves the same goal is an 18-gauge strike plate with four offset holes and 3-inch-long screws that reach an inch into the nearest stud.
Most places have their building code requirements, so review them and the manufacturer’s recommendations before proceeding. The underlying principle is universal: avoid screws that only engage the door jamb.
Purchase a deadbolt that meets the requirements of the door
A deadbolt requires a door with a solid core to resist force from the outside. A steel door in a sturdy frame is better than a hollow wooden door in a weak frame. Repair the latter, but reinforce the frame of the former so that it can withstand the same forces.
ANSI and BHMA standards are relevant to the discussion, as police departments such as Montgomery County Sheriff’s Office have recommendations that apply to exterior doors. The standards suggest Grade 1 or 2 locks with a deadbolt throw of at least 1 inch, so review the grade of the proposed installation. Consider laminated or security glass if the glass is within reach of the deadbolt, and ensure that panic hardware is not compromised.
Double-cylinder deadbolts are an option for exterior doors
A double-cylinder deadbolt requires a key to operate both from the inside and the outside of the door. This is a security measure that prevents an intruder from manipulating the lever on the broken glass. The same security feature also prevents residents from exiting the house in the case of an emergency.
Some jurisdictions do not permit the use of double-cylinder deadbolts in multifamily dwellings, and the applicable restrictions should be reviewed before making this purchase.
For single-family residences, double-cylinder deadbolts are a matter of preference; most people are better served by a single-cylinder deadbolt with an interior thumbturn. Always ensure that a key cannot be reached from the outside of the house.
Smart locks, keys, and door viewers
Smart locks and keypad systems allow temporary entry, but they present three new points of failure in the form of depleted batteries, account security, and the ability to handle an emergency when the application fails to respond. A reliable mechanical lock should be installed alongside a smart lock, as a point of reference.
Change the locks when moving into a new residence, and program the new codes when setting up smart locks. Avoid securing spare keys in accessible outdoor hiding places since every such location is obvious to anyone with ill intent. A trusted neighbor or a lockbox with a keypad code offer better alternatives.
A peephole or a wide-angle door viewer allows visual identification of a visitor. A door chain is a useful tool, but it is a poor substitute for a locked door. Keep pet doors small, and secure them when they are not in use.
Secure Windows and Sliding Doors
Windows and sliding doors are often overlooked, but a home security guide should consider them as doors. Any plan for how to keep your home safe from burglars will include windows, and the reason for it is reflected in the no-force statistic discussed earlier.
Install keyed locks or sash locks on the windows, as well as vent stops for the windows that require regular opening to allow the flow of fresh air.
Security film will hold broken glass together to slow an intruder, but it does not make standard glass into a security window. Laminated glass, on the other hand, is a substantial option that requires research to determine the applicable thickness and specifications for the opening.
Consider locks, sensors, or grilles on ground-floor and basement windows, with one caveat. Ensure that occupants can always open the window in case of an emergency. A grille on a ground-floor window defeats the purpose if it traps residents inside during a fire.
Sliding glass doors
Sliding doors have two weaknesses, namely the track along which they slide and the possibility to lift them out of their runners completely. A track bar or dowel should be inserted into the channel so that it prevents the door from sliding inward; a compatible foot lock should be installed on the sliding door. An anti-lift device should be installed if the door has one, and the lift capability of the door should be tested.
Test the door by lifting it vertically, and ensure that it engages at every available locking point, including the top or bottom tracks for patio, French, and bi-fold doors. Door and window sensors and glass-break sensors can alert you or a central alarm company; test them regularly, and not just once.
Garage, Shed, and Outbuilding Security
Securing the garage is a matter of the same principles that have been discussed, with the added nuance that it is both an entrance to the house and frequently overlooked. Keeping the garage door closed is the best way to secure it, instead of leaving it open for convenience. Garage-door opener remotes should be secured, and default codes changed. Interior doors between the garage and the house should be locked, and treated as exterior doors, because that is what they have become. Windows should also be secured.
Consider disconnecting the garage door opener when away from home for an extended period, if it is possible to do so without compromising access. Lock cars inside the garage, and do not leave anything of value on display through the windows. Sheds and other outbuildings are often overlooked, but they frequently contain the tools that an intruder would need to gain entry.
A sound lock, reinforced hinges, and anchoring the shed are measures that will secure it against forced entry. Motion lights can also help prevent an intruder from getting too close. Keep ladders out of the shed, and do not store house keys inside it. The most comprehensive threat assessment would look at the items that would allow someone to enter, and a shed full of potential tools is as much of a weakness as an unlocked door.
Lighting, Landscaping, and Perimeter
Lighting provides security through observability; it is essential for safety but rarely as effective as many assume. Motion-activated lights are placed at entrances, along the walks, and near the garage, but they should be positioned so that they observe the space. Fixtures that illuminate the whole street provide a false sense of security by attracting attention to the residence.
Lights on timers that keep the perimeter lit at night are appropriate, as are motion floodlights for the backyard. Lights alone are not security; an intruder is not prevented from attempting a burglary simply because a window is visible.
Landscaping that helps
Trim bushes and branches that obscure windows and doors from view.
The test is simple: if you cannot see someone walking up to the front door from the street, neither can burglars. Thorny plants may supplement this around ground-floor windows, but they must not impede access or create a safety hazard. Gravel paths provide some benefit by making footsteps sound, but they are mostly an aesthetic addition.
Fences and gates make the boundaries apparent, and should not have pockets on the inside where an intruder can hide. Fences in particular can conceal an intruder as effectively as they hide a garden; a good six-foot fence is appropriate. Gates should be maintained as much as locks are, and kept closed when not in use.
Post security signs where a visitor can see them before approaching the front door. Signs and dummy cameras do not add to the security of a house, and should be treated as a minor deterrent.
Cameras, Video Doorbells, and Alarm Systems
A home security guide of this nature would not be complete without advice on alarms, video doorbells, and cameras. Place cameras to observe entrances and the path, including the garage door, and to cover the blind spot identified during the home security audit. Mount them according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, and view the video feed during the day, and the night, since few cameras perform well in darkness.
Avoid recording private spaces, and limit recordings to those that are permitted by local law. Review the privacy settings for the video doorbell, including the retention settings and whether the recording captures sound. Cameras are useful tools for home security, but they are not reliable deterrents or crime-prevention devices. Purchase one based on its ability to serve a specific security function, and invest in an online presence that keeps it updated.
Monitored, self-monitored, or neither
A monitored alarm system means that the alarm company will contact you when there is an issue; a self-monitored alarm notifies you directly. Both are valid, but they respond to threats in a different manner. Compare and contrast the following factors before purchasing an alarm system.
● Sensor coverage that addresses the points of entry identified on the home security audit
● The cellular backup and battery power that keeps the system operational during a power failure
● The length of the contract, its cancellation policy, and the ownership of the equipment
● Specific response instructions in the case of an alarm activation
● The false-alarm policy and any fines that the community may impose
● Pet-friendly motion sensors in the case of a pet roaming around the house
Review local law regarding alarm systems, as many jurisdictions require registration before police will respond to an alarm activation. Some places also penalize false alarms, which is a disincentive for owning a monitored alarm system. Equipment and installation costs vary, so compare the monthly monitoring fee against the length of the contract, and review the expected expenses over the life of the agreement rather than the annual costs. The same caution should be applied to the choice of the alarm company.
Smart Home and Wi-Fi Security
Every camera and connected lock in the smart home is a computer, and the router is the central one. Securing the house without securing the network is an unreliable endeavor. Home security advice tends to overlook the router, as an upgrade is rarely discussed on a home security guide.
The following practices secure the network and devices:
Network security
● Use WPA3 if available, or WPA2-AES if not
● Update firmware on the router, and disable unnecessary features
● Place smart devices on a guest network if the router supports it
● Use unique passwords and multi-factor authentication where available
Camera, alarm, and smart lock security
● Review privacy settings, especially those that concern the retention of video and audio
● Review account permissions, and remove any that are no longer necessary
● Be wary of phishing attempts, especially those that appear to be from the camera or alarm service
Always maintain a keyed entry as a backup to a smart lock system, and review the permissions of any smart lock application. A smart lock should continue to function during an internet outage, and the extent of its capabilities should be identified ahead of time. A phishing attempt could compromise a Wi-Fi connected alarm system, and it is necessary to recognize one if one appears.
Stop Package Theft
Most home thefts are related to packages in some manner, and few of them require entering the house in any way. The solution is not a new security system, but rather a refinement of the existing procedures. Use delivery instructions to have the package brought to a location that is not visible from the street. Ask a neighbor to retrieve it, or establish a pickup point or address. Install a secured box if deliveries are frequent.
A camera will record the thief, but it will not secure the package on the porch. A camera and a plan for what to do with the delivery combine to prevent package theft. This is the most comprehensive approach, but it is complicated and often unnecessary. It is usually enough to modify the delivery instructions or ask your neighbor to collect the delivery.
A home security guide should address the weaknesses in the current system, and not just suggest improvements to the ones that have been purchased. In cases of theft, the delivery person is often the only witness, and their options are limited. The camera can record the incident, but it will not be enough to bring charges against the thief. A secured box or delivery to an alternate address prevent the theft before it occurs.
A video doorbell or camera is an asset, but it does not guarantee security in the same way that a locked door does. A package on the step is no different from one in a secured box; both are vulnerable to theft unless the location is secured. In addition to the considerations mentioned, an alert system for when the delivery arrives is also an option.
Daily Habits That Protect Your Home
These require no spending and address the largest share of break-ins. They are also the first things people forget after an uneventful autumn. Security in the home depends more on this list being kept alive than on anything you purchase.
● Lock exterior doors and windows, even while you are home
● Close the blinds at night, so valuables and packages are not visible from the street
● Avoid posting travel plans while you are away, then post the photos when you are back
● Hold or forward the mail, rather than allow it to accumulate
● Use timers or smart plugs to vary lighting on a plausible schedule
● Know your neighbours, since a watchful person beats a motion sensor
Vacation checklist
Hold the mail. Arrange parcel pickup. Ask someone to pass by and check. Set lights on varying timers. Arrange lawn or snow maintenance to give the impression of occupancy. Enable away mode. Secure every door and window. Post the holiday photos when you are back.
Home Security by Budget
These are planning levels, not quotes. Prices vary with the region, the quality of products, and installation, so research current local prices before purchasing.
| Budget | What it buys |
| Free | Lock routine, trimmed shrubs, changed default codes, a neighbour who checks |
| Under $50 | Sliding-door bar or dowel, vent stops, light timers, 3-inch screws, basic window alarms, signage |
| $50 to $200 | Quality deadbolt, strike-plate reinforcement kit, motion light, one camera or doorbell, smart plugs |
| $200 to $500 | Smart lock, multi-camera kit, security film, DIY alarm kit, a small safe |
| $500 and up | Monitored system, door or frame replacement, laminated glass, a larger camera system with professional installation |
The free and under-$50 rows address the no-force entries that make up nearly 40% of burglaries. The rows below address a smaller share of the problem at considerable cost. Budget top-down only after the first two rows are truly complete.
How to Secure Your Apartment From Burglary
Renters have fewer options and more restrictions, so start with what the lease and the landlord allow.
Ask whether the locks can be rekeyed, a consideration more important than many renters realise. You have no idea how many keys might exist from past tenancies. Request repairs to window latches and improved lighting or access control in common areas, in writing so there is a record.
Renter-friendly additions do not require drilling. A portable door jammer, a removable window alarm, and a sliding-door bar sized to the track all travel with the renter. Use the existing peephole, or ask about adding one.
Ask before drilling, replacing hardware, or mounting a camera in a shared space. Rental agreements, local law, and fire codes all apply, and a camera covering a shared hallway raises different issues than one on an individual door would.
For parcels, coordinate with a neighbour or a staffed pickup location. Apartment lobbies are the easiest place to misplace a delivery.
Special Situations
● A new home: rekey every lock, change the garage code, and reset smart devices and shared accounts from the prior owner. Assume keys exist that nobody mentioned.
● Families and pets: practise the fire escape, secure pool gates, choose pet-compatible sensors, and control pet doors.
● Older adults: favour easily operated locks and alarms, and keep emergency contacts visible rather than in a phone.
● Rural or isolated homes: consider driveway alerts and exterior lighting, and plan an emergency around a longer response time.
Protect Against Home Invasion: Your Emergency Plan
The federal survey data places a household member present during roughly 28% of burglaries, with about 7% involving violence. Those are 2003 to 2007 figures and the newest the government has published, which makes a plan desirable despite the odds.
Plan around communication, shelter, and safe exit. Any attempt to protect against home invasion that revolves around confrontation is not a plan, and nothing in your house is worth a fight.
● Keep a charged phone where you sleep, with emergency contacts reachable without unlocking it
● Identify one room with a solid, closable door, a phone signal, a light, and basic first aid
● Agree who calls emergency services and who checks on children or dependents
● Agree a meeting point outside for when leaving is the safer option
● Practise it twice a year, the same way you practise a fire drill
Safe room essentials
Select a room with a lockable door and a reliable signal. Keep a phone charger or power bank, a torch, first-aid supplies, and a written contact list in it. Call emergency services as soon as it is safe to talk.
Do not block a required exit, and do not store anything that would stop people leaving during a fire. The room has to work for both emergencies.
What to Do If Your Home Is Burglarized
If you arrive and suspect someone may still be inside, do not enter. Take yourself somewhere safe and call emergency services from there.
Once the home is confirmed empty, avoid touching or moving anything until police advise you. Photograph the damage and create an inventory when it is safe to do so.
Then work through the practical list. Contact your insurer. Secure the damaged entry point so the house is not open overnight. Rekey locks or change access codes, including any code a key-holder had. Review how the entry happened and close that particular gap, since the same route is the most likely to be used again.
Common Home Security Mistakes and Myths
Several of the following are so common that they appear to be standard practice.
● Hiding a spare key outside. Every traditional hiding place is searched first.
● Announcing travel in real time on social media
● Relying on a door chain, which is a visibility aid rather than a barrier
● Trusting fake signs or dummy cameras to do the work of a real system
● Leaving a garage opener visible in a parked car
● Buying bright lights while leaving weak locks, the most expensive version of this mistake
● Skipping window locks entirely because the windows feel too small to matter
● Treating a doorbell camera as the whole defence
Double-key deadbolts belong on this list with a caveat. They stop someone reaching a thumb turn through glass, and can delay your escape during a fire. Local codes may restrict these locks. If you fit one under a compliant installation, keep the key accessible while the house is occupied.
Insurance, Legal, and Privacy
Ask your insurer directly whether a specific alarm or monitored system qualifies for a discount. Eligibility and the paperwork they want both vary, and the saving rarely covers the monitoring fee on its own.
Check alarm permit rules and false-alarm fees with your local authority before the system goes live, and not after the first dispatch.
Camera and audio-recording law varies by jurisdiction, and audio is regulated far more tightly than silent video. Aim cameras at your own property, observe neighbour privacy, and review HOA or rental rules before installing anything on a shared wall.
Conclusion
Learning how to secure your home is mostly about the order of operations. The step that costs nothing prevents the break-in most likely to happen, and the costly steps address a smaller share of the problem. Security in the house is assembled from the bottom of the budget upward.
Lock up every time. Reinforce the frames with long screws. Fit real deadbolts and secure the sliding door. Light the approach and keep the sightlines clear. Then add detection where the audit found a blind spot.
Walk the property this week, in daylight and after dark. Whatever you find in that first hour will be worth more than the next thing you buy.
This article is general information for the United States. Follow the instructions supplied with your own equipment, and any applicable local building and fire code. For an emergency in progress, call emergency services.
Frequently Asked Questions
Lock every door and window first, since FBI data shows nearly 4 in 10 burglaries involve no force at all. Then reinforce the frames of exterior doors, fit a proper deadbolt, secure sliding doors, and light the approaches. Add sensors, cameras, or an alarm after that, and agree on a household response plan.
Start with doors, windows, and garage access. Check each one closes and locks, fit a properly installed deadbolt, reinforce the strike plates with long screws, and secure accessible windows. Reduce concealing objects near entrances, arrange parcel collection while away, and ask a neighbour to notice anything unusual.
Habits cost nothing and address the largest share of break-ins. Lock up every time, close blinds at night, trim overgrowth, change default access codes, and coordinate with neighbours. A sliding-door bar, a window stop, or a light timer each cost under $25. Fix broken locks before buying a camera.
No single device teaches how to protect your house from break-ins on its own. Reinforce doors and windows, add lighting and sensors where they cover a genuine blind spot, then keep the daily routine. The right combination depends on the building, the household, the budget, and local rules.
Cameras give visibility, alerts, and recordings that help afterwards. Evidence that a camera alone reliably prevents a burglary is weaker than the marketing suggests. Place them to cover entrances and approaches, secure the account, check privacy settings, and pair them with physical locks and a response plan.
Confirm the door closes and locks properly first. Add a track bar or cut dowel in the channel, fit a compatible secondary lock, and add an anti-lift device where the frame suits one. Test whether the door lifts out of its track, since many do. Keep any sensors maintained and preserve safe exit.
Ask the landlord in writing about rekeying and repairs to locks, windows, and common-area lighting. Use renter-friendly door jammers, window alarms, or a sliding-door bar where the lease permits. Ask before drilling or changing hardware, and check fire-safety requirements. Coordinate parcels with a neighbour or a staffed pickup point.
They stop someone reaching an inside thumb, turn through nearby glass, and create a serious fire-escape hazard because you need a key to get out. Codes vary and some places restrict them in apartments. A single-key deadbolt with an interior thumb turn is the safer default unless local officials say otherwise.
Use layered protection. Control access with locks, improve visibility and lighting, detect openings with sensors or cameras, and prepare a response plan. Keep exits usable, follow installation instructions and local building and fire codes, secure the digital accounts, and test the equipment on a schedule.
For prevention purposes, the useful answer is which openings are weak rather than any technique. FBI 2025 data splits burglaries into 53.4% forcible entry and 39.7% unlawful entry with no force used. Inspect front, rear, and garage doors, unlocked windows, basement windows, and sliding doors, then close each gap.
References
1. Federal Bureau of Investigation. Reported Crimes in the Nation, 2025: Quick Stats. https://cde.ucr.cjis.gov/LATEST/resources/reports/Reported%20Crimes%20in%20the%20Nation%202025%20Quick%20Stats.pdf
2. Bureau of Justice Statistics. Criminal Victimization, 2024 (NCJ 310547). https://bjs.ojp.gov/document/cv24.pdf
3. Bureau of Justice Statistics. Victimization During Household Burglary (NCJ 227379), covering 2003 to 2007. https://bjs.ojp.gov/content/pub/pdf/vdhb.pdf
4. Seattle Police Department. Home Security: Door Security. https://www.seattle.gov/documents/Departments/Police/Prevention/Home_Security_D
5. Montgomery County Sheriff’s Office. Home Security: Locks. https://www.mctxsheriff.org/residents/locks.php
